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Lee Gomes at the Wall Street Journal has it right: American cookbook publishers should start listing weights next to ingredients, not just volume measurements. Publishers argue that American cooks typically don’t own kitchen scales, so why include these measures? To which I say “Balderdash!” Most serious home cooks do own electronic digital scales, and if they don’t, so what? Cooks who don’t want to ditch their measuring cups can rely on the more imprecise volume measurement, while those of us who revere our scales can follow the weight measurements.

One important point Gomes alludes to in his essay but doesn’t spell out is why ingredient weights deserve, well, more weight in the kitchen. It’s this: a cup (or a tablespoon or a “pinch”) isn’t always a cup, a tablespoon, or a “pinch.” It’s why your cereal box includes the message, “Sold by weight, not volume” or warns “Settling may occur.” A recipe tester’s measuring cup might be slightly bigger than the measuring cup you inherited from your Aunt Matilda. Or the cookbook author may have baked in his dry New Mexico kitchen and you’re baking his bread in your humid Houston home. Humidity can definitely affect volume measurements of ingredient like flour and sugar (as well it does weight, but still, weighing gives you a better chance at accuracy).

So, long story short — you’ll get the best result from a recipe when you know the precise weights the recipe developer/cookbook used. (And always be wary of recipes that specify a “pinch,” especially when it comes to cayenne pepper — one cook’s pinch is another cook’s pain in the ass!!)

So my Salton 1-qt. yogurt maker from amazon.com arrived yesterday via UPS. It’s basically a plastic crockpot running on low heat. I immediately began work on a sample batch. I used four cups of organic whole milk, a 1/2 cup of powdered milk, and a packet of yogurt culture. You must scald the milk and let it cool to blood temp before putting into the yogurt maker, which takes about 1/2 hour. I put the mixture in the yogurt maker around 2:30 p.m. and by 6:30 I had a nice, firm yogurt. Then it had to go into the fridge to cool overnight.

This morning I spooned out a cup or so, mixed in some honey and Bonne Maman blackberry jam — very nice! Oddly enough, it didn’t turn 0ut as smooth and creamy as my Mason-jar-in-the-stove yogurt. And except for the scalding part, it’s a fairly carefree process. Otherwise, I can see this gadget paying for itself as I can purchase organic milk more cheaply than I can organic yogurt.